When you are in the middle of Austria there are a lot of things you would not expect. A huge chinese portal is one of these things. But it fits there like a glove. So always think outside the box and expect the unexpected. Maybe trying something which does not fit there is a solution.
When playing around with fractals I rediscovered my love to them. Just in case you were wondering: Yes, there has been some postproduction.
The lens testing continues. I really like the pictures from the SELP18105G. They are always clear, crisp and show good contrasts. And I really like the HDRs I can build from the Pictures.
I took the new Sony SELP18105G for a test ride.
First impression: The lens is solid, well built and has two rings – one to zoom and one to focus. What makes here stand out from other lenses is a small lever which can also be used to zoom.
It looks like it was thought for videographers: The zoom lever for video, the constant aperture of f/4 through the whole zoom range and finally: The length does not change its length when zooming, which makes it easier to use with matte boxes.
As a photog it was the constant aperture and zoom length which draw me to this lens. From what I have seen until now it could be a good travel lens or even used for portraits.
Actually it is a really big lens. And by big I mean long and wide. Although the filter thread is 72mm the lens feels balanced on the Nex-7. I would say that it is definitely not heavy.
The lens has a wonderful circular aperture which produces the kind of bokeh I like.
I also like the tele end of the lens at f/4. I am curious how the HDRs will work out.
If you want further images you can find them on my flickr stream in the album SELP18105G-sooc.
Contact me, if you want to buy me a coffee 😉 or leave a comment and tell me and the other readers why you would or would not buy this lens.
Noise is your friend, noise is your enemy. Depends on who you are. For a photographer noise is mostly unwanted.
So there are millions of options and tool, how to get rid of noise. The easiest one being reducing your ISO to 200 or lower. This might be OK if you have time and lots of light.
But there are other methods and I was trying out an interesting one: Image averaging.
Averaging is a method which depends on one fact: The noise in the pictures is always different. Basically you take some pictures, treat them and put them together in an image editing program by a special recipe. Each layer gets the following opacity in percent:
100 *1/(number of layers below + 1)
Hence the number sequence starting at the bottom is 100, 50, 33.3, 25, 12.5 and so on. If you want to get a little bit more theoretical background, have a look here at Cambridge in colour (a wonderful site for noobs and pros).
I tried it once with a moving shadow (top picture), which consists of 3 shots at ISO 1600 and one macro with the Yasuhara Nanoha at f/32 and ISO 100 (but longer exposure: 1,6 seconds), just enough to get enough light and not have the wool move because of the warmth of the light. I have the impression it also improved the sharpness.
I will definitely try again with macros.
At the end a small tipp for users of pixelmator: You can add pictures as layers by using the menu only. And the funny part is: You have to add every single picture as one. Red wool consists of 7 pictures… …boring work until the fast guys from pixelmator bring us a new feature 😉