If you ever wanted to know what the tops of screws look like then check out this macro. I reconfigured my retroadapter to f/16 and used a flash for the first time (with a soft box top and a white cloth as a reflector on the other side). A little bit too much sharpness, but I love it.
I wanted to make a macro shot of velcro for a long time. So I reactivated my retroadapter and tried some shots.
The first thing I did was positioning my tripod. And then I tried to focus. I do not have any very special equipment. So the first thing I learned was: Do not move that camera. I moved the object.
In combination with a retro adapter the distance between the lens and the object is ridiculously small. So the next thing I learned is: Use good lighting. So I was using two strong LED lamps as spots and a strong ambient light.
Of course I did not try the third thing because I had to learn it. I used the live -view in order to get the focus right, but the live view shuts off. So the next thing I did was searching the internet and finding out that I can tether my camera.
So I ended up with a ministudio in which Velcro was sitting on top of a soft box right in front of my camera in front of my PC, lighted by two spots which are small enough to put them in my pockets.
The question remaining is: How can I extend the distance between my lens and the object when using a retro adapter? Do you have an answer?
Did you ever want to create one of these gigantic macros without cropping your pictures? It is only a question of time until you find mentions of a retro adapter. A retro adapter is a adapter attached to your lens so you can use it the other way around. The adapter fits the end where you use to screw your filters onto. I have a protector for the now open end of the lens.
The principal which comes to use is that… People who know me, expect at least 1460 words of scientific conundrums and several links to wikipedia and wolfram. Not here! It works. This is all that matters. So I started to have a look at the tips of my beloved aquarel pencils. They look like this:
Do you see the problem? The highlights are blown out, because I had the problem with the lighting. You can see the harsh shadows due to the additional light of a fenix LD20 in burst mode. What you also see is the very shallow DOF (see also Two acronyms in photography you should know). So you can imagine the following: Me, trying to focus on the tips of the pencils holding the camera with both hands, trying hard not to breath andgiving instructions to the very patient woman in my life. Please higher my dear, to the right, more, less,…. I bet her secret middle name is patience.
So I searched the web and tried to find the solution for the shallow DOF and here it is: